Ohio, The Midwest

End Around: A Wild Football Weekend in Canton and Columbus


Baltimore Colts versus Rockets Vintage Football Program

Vintage Football Program at the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

In a peculiar reflection of our nation’s current economic woes, the Indianapolis Colts of the National Football League gave their star quarterback, Peyton Manning, a five-year, $90 million contract extension.  The move clearly hampered the Colts’ ability to sign other players, weakening their roster.
Then disaster struck.  Manning was forced to undergo neck surgery and was out for the season.  Like a shareholder who had voted a mind-boggling compensation package for a corporate CEO who had failed to deliver, the owners of the Colts looked on in abject horror as the Colts swan-dived to the bottom of the standings.
Helpless and ruined, there was nothing they could do.  They still had to pay him, even as the rest of the team struggled and suffered.
Football has always reflected America.

Grinding Doggedly Along – The Birth of American Football

Early football scrum

An early football match (Pro Football Hall of Fame).

In the beginning there was rugby, a hard-bitten English game in which an oblong ball was moved forward by a slow surge of collective brute strength.  In the 1880’s Yale University coach Walter Camp added unique innovations to Americanize the game.  He stopped calling it rugby.  He started calling it football.
In the new American game the players would not just grind doggedly along.    There would be opportunities, with proper planning, to move ahead in leaps and bounds.  Camp instituted a system of four downs, the points system (awarding 6 points for a score), and the snap back from center, giving the ball carrier a brief moment to strategize.
Also, there would be an opportunity to get rewarded – monetarily.  In 1892 the first player was paid, inaugurating the professional game.
Tracy inspects the Lombardi Trophy

Tracy inspects the Lombardi Trophy at the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

How I Drive Tracy Nuts

By 1903 a professional league had been formed around teams from Ohio located in modest working class towns like Akron, Massillon, Youngstown and Canton.
Canton was a powerhouse in the early Ohio League and was instrumental in forming the American Professional Football Association, the forerunner of the NFL.  More than a hundred years later I was headed with my buddy Tracy to Canton visit the Pro Football Hall of Fame.
Tracy and I are great friends but we argue frequently.  I think I drive him nuts sometimes.
He accuses me of making broad, sweeping statements and being overly pessimistic.  I will admit to a certain flare for the dramatic but when it comes to being pessimistic I claim the same tired refuge of all confirmed pessimists:  I am only being realistic.
Cue Tracy groaning.  “Go this way,” I tell him but he’s so miffed he misses the exit for Columbus.  “Go back,” I say.  He tells me he intends to in a tone meant to communicate that I should shut up now.

Wisconsin vs Ohio State Vintage Program

We were headed to Columbus to see the Wisconsin vs Ohio State game. Wisconsin was heavily favored.

I shut up and watch the towers of downtown Columbus wheel around behind us as we descend the ramp.
Before we go to Canton we have business here – football business.  We are here to watch a game.

Underdog Buckeyes

Ohio State University in Columbus is rabid for football.  Few would dispute it.  They have won the National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA) championship seven times, the third most in college football.  They boast a proud tradition dating back to 1890, and they lead the nation in attendance.
Yet in the past year Ohio State has been the target of NCAA investigations into allegations surrounding former coach Jim Tressel who was accused of covering up illegal player compensation schemes.  He was fired and several players were suspended.
Ranked number one in 2010, the Buckeyes fell out of the top 25 for the first time in seven years.  As Tracy and I headed into Columbus, the team was desperately in need of redemption.  They needed to prove themselves.  After an episode of financial hanky-panky, they needed a reason to believe.  Not unlike the country itself.

Buckeye fans at the Varsity Club for the big tailgate party.

Buckeye fans at the Varsity Club in Columbus.         Click on any picture to enlarge.

The 6th ranked Wisconsin Badgers were coming to town.  The hometown Buckeyes were 7 point underdogs.  To the wizards in Vegas who analyze such things, the Buckeyes were a long shot at best.
I like me an underdog so I was happy to throw my support behind the Buckeyes, but I was not naive.  “They haven’t got a chance,” I told Tracy.  “Wisconsin is going to clean their clocks.”
“You don’t know everything,” Tracy bristled.
I bit my tongue.

How to Really Experience America

Grilling burgers at the Buckeye tailgate party.

A proper tailgate party involves wolfing down burgers and drinking copious quantities of alcohol.


My old college pal Cary arranged the tickets for us.  Together with Cary, we headed down to High Street, a strip of bars and restaurants bordering the University.  A full-fledged tailgate party was underway.
I have, on occasion, been asked by foreign visitors what they should see to truly experience America.  I have never hesitated in answer: a tailgate party.
In theory, a tailgate party consists of opening the trunk or hatchback of a car and making an instant and elaborate picnic near the bumper, usually in the parking lot and next to hundreds of other such impromptu picnics, resulting in a gigantic party, all in preparation for a football game.  When game time comes, the picnic is instantly folded up and packed away, and the party moves enmasse into the stadium for three hours of roaring fanaticism.
At Ohio State the term is used more loosely to apply to outdoor parties of any kind.  The result is no less effective.  Enthusiasts in costumes mingle with the
Ohio Stadium, known as "The Shoe", seats 100,000 fans.

Ohio Stadium, known as “The Shoe”, seats 100,000 fans. The place was sold out for the Wisconsin game.

general tide of those in colors and jerseys to laugh, hoot and egg each other on.  Copious quantities of alcohol are consumed.  Burgers, sausages and ribs are wolfed down.  Opposing teams are dismissed with scorn.
Inside the stadium, Tracy and I wore scarlet and gray, declaring ourselves members of the tribe so we could immerse ourselves in the experience and see what would come of it.  For that night, at least, we were Buckeyes.

 The Eternal Football Question

In 1906 the Intercollegiate Athletic Association, the forerunner of the NCAA, put through a rule change designed to reduce the chance of injury in football.  It proved to be revolutionary.  The forward pass, although it was not fully utilized until years later, was the single most important rule change to distinguish American football from its predecessors.

The Ohio State defense pins Wisconsin against the goal line.

The Buckeyes defense held back an explosive Wisconsin offense coming into the game averaging 47.4 points and 512 yards.

But in the present day the Buckeyes were employing little of it.  Much to Tracy’s dismay they were mostly running with the ball, grinding out 2 or 3 yards per play and relying heavily on their surprisingly deft and mobile quarterback, a kid named Braxton Miller, to earn first downs and keep the ball moving.
“At some point they’re going to have to start throwing,” he said in a tone that suggested groaning and cranium-squeezing were just around the corner.
“Why should they?” I asked.  “They’re controlling time of possession and moving the ball.  That’s what they want.”
He gave me a vexed look, one that wondered, as so many have done throughout the years, whether modern football games can be won that way.
It’s a good question.  In all likelihood, that’s what the Colts were wondering when Peyton Manning was sidelined.  How can we win if we don’t throw?  But the history of the game tells a different story.
The Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton, Ohio

The Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton.

The Pro Football Hall of Fame

At the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton, Ohio it becomes clear, as you circle the rotunda beneath the football-shaped dome and examine the history of the game, that long after the forward pass was legalized, teams opted instead to grind out yardage on the ground, carrying the ball forward and plowing into opposing linemen with brute force.
“Smash mouth football,” as former Chicago Bears head coach Mike Ditka deemed it, much like the hard working immigrants who labored strenuously in the factories so they could claw their way up to into the middle class.
It wasn’t until 1913 that Knute Rockne, the head coach of the Notre Dame, fully utilized the forward pass, scorching opposing defenses and inspiring a whole new brand of football, one that looked for every opportunity to pass.  By the 1960’s when the country was at its summit economically, the envy of the world, passing was the name of the game in the NFL.
Fans thrilled at the prospect of a long bomb.

Jim Thorpe statue in the hopelessly dated atrium of the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

The statue of Jim Thorpe in the hopelessly outdated atrium of the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

The rotunda area of the Hall of Fame is the original portion of the building, dating back to 1963, when it was built.  Seen from the outside it looks every bit its age, all tiles, stucco and masonry.  The bronze statue of Jim Thorpe in the entry hall surrounded by a 60’s style spiral ramp leading to the second floor screams Ripley’s Believe it or Not.
When you ascend to the exhibits, things don’t get much better.  Crude department store mannequins outfitted in vintage uniforms stand in for football greats.  Fuzzy, dated monitors play scratchy audio of historic plays.
But just when you think you are in for a football-centric version of Wall Drug, you are startled by the Hall of Fame Gallery, where more than 300 bronze busts are tastefully arranged on Lucite shelves against black marble backgrounds.  Interactive exhibits play highlights of each player’s achievements and give background on his history and influence.  It’s really quite stunning.


The crowd at Ohio Stadium for Wisconsin vs Ohio State game.

The Buckeyes were beating the Badgers and the hometown crowd was giddy with excitement.

Among the players honored in the Hall are five former Ohio State players, including Bill Willis, who after graduating in 1945 had a hard time finding a job in the NFL, which had not drafted a black player since 1933.  So Willis joined the rival American Football League and made a name for himself as defensive guard on the Cleveland Browns.  When the Browns were adopted by the NFL, Willis became one of the earliest African-American players to play in the league in the modern era.  His appearance coincided with the emergence of the Civil Rights Movement.  The NFL was right in step with the times.
In the present day, race was not much of an issue on the field at Ohio Stadium where Wisconsin’s frustration was growing.  By the middle of the third quarter the Buckeyes owned a 17-7 advantage on the heavily favored Badgers, and the fans were starting to feel it. The Buckeye’s defense had stifled a Wisconsin offense that had come into the game averaging 47.4 points and 512 yards.
The Hall of Fame gallery at the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

More than 300 bronze busts grace the Hall of Fame gallery. It’s more impressive than you would think.

As the fans chanted O-H-I-O and made the shapes of the letters with their arms, Tracy declared that Ohio State looked like they had the right formula to beat the heavily favored Badgers.
“It isn’t in the bag yet,” I told him.  “This is college football, and Wisconsin is number six for a reason.”
Tracy glowered at me, and then leaped to his feet and struck both his fists into the air yelling, “Let’s go!”


Cirque de Soleil on a Gridiron

In the Moments, Memories and Momentoes Gallery at the Pro Football Hall of Fame they have a behind-the-scenes video of coaches and players urging each other with the words, “Let’s go!”  After ten or so such exhortations, one weary player is heard to say, “Where are we going?  We’re already here.  Let’s just play.”  It got the biggest laugh of the day from the assembled viewers.

Video monitor and bronze statue of George Halas.

A bronze statue of a dashing young George Halas stands above a video monitor playing a film of a grumpy older Halas.

The Hall of Fame has dozens of such video galleries, covering everything from historic games to crucial advancements.  One area is set aside for rival leagues.  Over the decades other professional leagues have cropped up to challenge the NFL and most have faded away, but one was so formidable the NFL had no choice but to merge with it.
The American Football League (AFL) ran from 1960 to 1969 and fielded 10 teams.  When it merged with the NFL in 1970 those teams were formed into the AFC, while the former NFL teams became the NFC.  Today the two conferences make up the NFL.  The best team from each conference plays in the Super Bowl.
The net affect of having two conferences consisting of 32 teams is that the cream of the available talent is absorbed into the league, leaving little left over for rival leagues.  Watching the NFL today is a little like watching Cirque de Soleil.  Mistakes are few and the talent is jaw-dropping.
In college football, on the other hand, there are 119 teams, so the talent pool is much more dissipated.  The net affect is a game that’s much more prone to errors and miscues, which, in a perverse way, is a good thing, making for games like the one we were watching, where just about anything can happen.

Realism 101

Father and son Packer fans play Madden 2011 at the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

A pair of Drivers. Father and son Packer fans play Madden 2011 at the Pro Football Hall of Fame.

As predicted Wisconsin came roaring back.  With Ohio State up 26-14 in the fourth quarter even I was beginning to think the Buckeyes had the game in the bag.  But then Wisconsin answered back with a 17 yard strike, making the score 26-21.
The fans, who had been delirious only moments earlier, fell silent.  The mood turned gloomier moments later when Wisconsin struck again with a 44-yard pass that hit the receiver in stride, resulting in another touchdown, followed by a 2-point conversion.  Just like that Wisconsin was up 29-26.  Ohio Stadium was as silent as a tomb.
All night long Buckeye quarterback Braxton Miller had been controlling the tempo of the game by grinding out yardage on the ground, passing for only 49 yards.  But now with less than a minute left, he would have no choice.  He was going to have to throw.  Unfortunately, Wisconsin was aware of that too and had the Ohio State receivers blanketed.  It would take a miracle for Ohio State to pull this one out.

A Seven Nation Army Couldn’t Hold Them Back

Buckeye fans look on in consternation as Wisconsin takes the lead.

The Buckeye fans were suddenly somber as Wisconsin came roaring back and took the lead.

The miracle finishes film at the Pro Football Hall of Fame covers stunning last minute upsets from “The Miracle at the Meadowlands” to the “Immaculate Reception”.  Along with the Super Bowl Theatre and the Interactive Gallery, where you can loll around on sofas and play Madden NFL 12  just like at home, it is one of the most popular attractions at the Hall.
Taken altogether, the Pro Football Hall of Fame is better than you might think.  Although it looks dated from the outside, with the exception of its original wing, it’s really quite up-to-date and engaging.  What’s more, it’s about to embark on a renovation and expansion project to be completed summer of 2013.  When that’s done, it should be extraordinary.
Something extraordinary was going to have to happen at Ohio Stadium to lift the fans out of their doldrums.  The 100,000 fans who had been giddily belting
A fan's fist is raised above the crowd as Ohio State defeats Wisconsin.

Sweet victory!

out the opening strains of Seven Nation Army by the White Stripes only moments earlier were glumly watching the field now with 20 seconds left as Braxton Miller took the snap and rolled out looking for a receiver.
Back on the interstate after the game, Tracy and I discussed the economy.  Tracy was of the opinion that we would eventually find our way out of our doldrums and return to our former glory as a nation.
“Not gonna happen,” I said.  “The rich and the powerful are out of control.  They can privatize their gains and socialize their losses.  They can screw up badly and put the responsibility on us.    There is no accountability.  Their arrogance is shocking.  They can get away with just about any crime, then turn around and blame the victims, strip us of our bargaining rights, take away our social security.  But they never have to pay.   In a free market economy there must be accountability.  Otherwise the system doesn’t work – can’t work.”
Fans rush onto the field after the Buckeyes upset Wisconsin.

Fans rushed onto the field in jubilation. The Buckeyes had pulled off an upset win in the most unlikely way.

That struck him as a tad too pessimistic.  “We’ll work it out eventually.”
“Only if there’s a game changer,” I said.  “Something out of the blue.  Something too make people wake up and take notice .”

Trouble in Happy Valley

A week after the game the good people of Ohio stood up and voted no on a ballot measure that would have stripped public union workers of their collective bargaining rights, delivering a stinging rebuke to their Republican governor, who preferred to extend tax breaks to the rich, hoping for a little more of that special largesse we’ve been enjoying from trickle down economics.
On the same day a story broke that Penn State Football assistant head coach Jerry Sandusky had been raping young boys in the team’s locker room for decades.  The immediate reaction was to defend venerable head coach Joe Paterno from any negative fall out due a man who quietly passed the allegations up the ladder to University officials, taking no other action.

Joe Paterno

Penn State’s, Joe Paterno. Wealth and success personified.


Joe Paterno was practically an institution at Penn State.  He  was considered above reproach.  And when some in the media  began pointing out that his behavior was at best irresponsible, at worst criminal, his defenders rioted.  Joe Pa had made Penn State great.  He could not be questioned.  He could not be held accountable, no matter what the crime.
Nonsense, said a groundswell of people who had the good sense to realize that the possible cover up of child rape trumped grid iron success, no matter how many years it had filled the coffers of Happy Valley to overflowing.
Wealth and success did not absolve the man of accountability.  Paterno was fired.
It was a bolt out of the blue.

A Wing and a Prayer

Tracy Ahr

Tracy was mighty pleased with the outcome. Maybe even a little vindicated.

Miller stepped nimbly back to avoid an oncoming pass rusher.  He dodged to the right.  He dodged to the left.  He anxiously scanned the field looking for a receiver.  He was flushed for the pocket and ran desperately toward the sideline.  Then he reared back and threw, an awkward, off-balance throw, a wing and a prayer.
The ball sailed high into the air, a long, lazy rainbow  It seemed intended for no one.  It arced toward the middle of the end zone and came to rest in the hands of an unguarded Ohio State receiver.
The ref’s arms shot up.  The clock ran out.  Touchdown!  Ohio State had won!
The crowd went insane.  Fans by the hundreds poured onto the field.  We capered about, cheering and high-fiving.  It was a glorious come back.  An extraordinary victory.  A bolt out of the blue.
Football has always reflected America.

Game Highlights of Wisconsin vs Ohio State 10/29/11

Video of game highlights of Wisconsin vs Ohio State
Click on play button to go to video

Video Tour of Pro Football Hall of Fame

Video tour of Pro Football Hall of Fame
Click on play button to go to video

My American Odyssey Route

Previous stop on the odyssey: Chicago-Milwaukee  //
Next stop on the odyssey:  New York, NY

View My American Odyssey Route Map in a full screen map

Image Credits:  All images by Malcolm Logan, except for image of Joe Paterno, which is in the Public Domain; Vintage football programs and image of early game were taken at the Pro Football Hall of Fame